At the Legation

A funny thing about keeping a record of our experience living here is that we're drawn to the noteworthy, possibly to the exclusion of the day-to-day. Because of this--and on the eve of our departure for a trip to southern Morocco, which is sure to bring more adventures and vistas--I thought that I'd just post a few things about the Legation, which is where I've been doing the majority of research for my class, and which is, in itself, worth a trip to Tangier.

No big deal, but my library is SUPER OFFICIAL.

My responsibilities for my Fulbright are pretty neatly divided into thirds: I audit university-level classes, I visit and interact with students at primary and secondary schools here in Morocco, and I complete a capstone project. For my project, I've been working on designing a place-based course--suitable for American high school students--which might draw them into the multicultural city of Tangier through it's literary history, both North African and expatriate. Many know that Tangier was a hub for Americans writers living abroad in the late 1950's and into the 1960's--it's closely associated with the Beat Movement, and sort of centered around Paul Bowles. This literary history is fascinating, and only made more fascinating by the inclusion of early explorers to the city (who included Mark Twain and Samuel Pepys) and visitors from the city (Tanjawi Ibn Battuta was one of the most prolific travelers of the ancient world). There are a number of Moroccan writers in translation who complement this history.

TALIM: Sounds a bit like a James Bond villain's lair, but, then again, Ian Fleming did write here in Tangier.

Wrangling all of this information together is where TALIM has been truly amazing. The library here at the Legation is absolutely amazing--with old Tangier newspapers, every book that one might want about the literary history of Tangier, and a quiet, studious space to work. On the second floor of the library, I've established a little nook where I can put together my class, read, and post baby videos to Tumblr. Likewise, interesting people--drawn to TALIM--are always dropping in for a day or week, and I've learned a lot from talking to them.

Akane, a graduate student from New York, perusing the old Tangier Gazettes.

Of course, for a visitor, the real draw of TALIM is the amazing history of the place, and the top-notch exhibits within it. The Tangier Legation is the first American public property outside the United States, and has a long and colorful history of use--for over 140 years! It's not well-known in America--though it's better known here--that Morocco was actually the first country to officially recognize the United States, and the 1786 Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship is one of our oldest treaties. Over the years, the Legation has been a diplomatic hub, a spy base, and, now, a museum and cultural center.

The beautiful Moorish entryway to the museum.

Some of the fascinating things inside the museum are primary source documents of Tangier history, as well amazing stories of Moroccan-American relations, such as in 1839, when the United States tried to get out of receiving an unusual gift from the Emporer--a lion and lioness. Refusing the gift proved very difficult for the consul, Thomas A. Carr, and he eventually relented. Anyone who's had a meal with a Moroccan family knows that they can be relentless in their generosity! Likewise, the Perdicaris Affair has it all--pirates, kidnappers, and a Teddy Roosevelt. These exhibits, as well as what you can find in the archives of the Tangier Gazette, make TALIM such an amazing resource, as well as just a great place to visit.

A prophetic headline from 1949, though I'm not sure that they mean this the way that William S. Burroughs will.

Ultimately, though (this seems to be a theme on our blog), it comes down to the people. From John Davison, the director, to Yhtimad Bouziane, the associate director, to the guards and everyone else, the Legation has been a wonderful touchstone. I enjoy coming as soon as it opens, walking the narrow streets into the Medina through "The American Gate," and getting the chance to research and write and think in the most convivial possible environment. Usually, I leave at lunch, off to visit a school, or watch Cecily while Kate's Spanish class is in session. Either way, like the Thomas A. Carr, I'm overwhelmed with the hospitality that I've encountered here.

A welcome sight each morning.