Au Début

After Kate and I somewhat-miraculously arrived at the same time and place on the surface of the earth without the help of mobile phones, instant messaging, and Google Maps, we began by starting to put our house in order. Really, there wasn't much to do, because Khalid (one of the professors with whom I'm working SLASH nicest man in the country) had already helped us find an apartment, a spacious eighth-floor apartment in a happening part of town, owned by his sister Najat. Khalid brought us to the apartment immediately, and it's fair to say that the pictures don't really do it justice. First of all, it's huge (like, beach volleyball huge). Secondly, everywhere is the dull glimmer of gold. We're worried that Cecily will grow up to be like Smaug from "The Hobbit," surrounded by all of her gold (there are preliminary signs of Smaug-like behavior, but more on that later). 

"Someday, Cecily, this will all be yours."

Basically, the apartment already had everything that we needed, plus lots we didn't. The few things that it lacked, however, quickly revealed our cultural ineptness. Here is a list of the things that the apartment needed and the time that it took to acquire them, along with any relevant notes.

1. Trash Can: 48 hours, Completed, Similar in cost to trash can from Hammacher Schlemmer catalog on airplane.
2. Towels: 4 Days, Not Completed. At one point, we actually asked if people use towels here. They do.
3. Wireless Internet: 8 Days, Not Completed. Questioning utility of blog.

The disturbingly long delays in completing tasks here have little do with the country (the markets and medinas teem with every possible item that one might want to purchase), and way more to do with our own juggling act of new languages, an infant, and a new city. With that said, we've been having a ton of fun exploring the city, meeting people, participating in mishaps. 

It's also worth noting that almost all of our exchanges with Moroccans, which might be frustrating for them, are smoothed over by our cultural ambassador, Cecily.

Cecily, for the win.

Our research about Morocco suggested that Moroccans are very family oriented, and like babies. This is some kind of drastic understatement about Morocco (like saying, "Yes, they've got a reasonably good handle on how to make flatbread here"). Moroccans LOVE Cecily. They pick her up, coo at her, forgive her parents for communicating poorly in both French AND Spanish (sometimes simultaneously), and generally make our lives joyful and fun as we learn the contours of a new city and culture. 

I would tell you that Cecily likes how colorful it is, but it appears that what she really likes about Morocco is the VAST quantity of attention that she receives from everyone she meets.

Another fun challenge for us has been one given to me by my students, who sent me away from school with a package of letters saying "OPEN UPON ARRIVAL." First of all, I want to point out that not opening these packages shows a certain degree of trust in my students (after all, a well-placed suspicious substance and scary letter could guarantee that I wouldn't be back to administer the spring final). However, rather than an elaborate and diabolical plot to have their teacher rot in an international prison, instead they sent me a list of challenges, one for each week that we'll be in Morocco.

Ominous, no?

These challenges will surely keep me busy as we start to get a better handle on the city itself, some towels, and a trash can. 

Finally, thanks to Craig and Suzanne, we've also been out exploring a bit nearby. Last week before they left, we headed to Asilah, a small seaside village on the Atlantic. Asilah, with it's ancient white walls, reminded me of Mykonos, Greece. Favored by Spaniards, Asilah has a commanding view of the Atlantic, and is just 30 minutes from Tangier. 

Looking out from the Cave of Hercules in Cap Spartel.

Narrow streets and cool murals in Asilah

We are really looking forward to exploring the area around Tangier, but, for now, are also really happy to have successfully cooked a few meals at home, figured out where to buy coffee and how to use the elevator in our apartment. Success!